The foliage of Abies balsamea is comprised of blue-green, dense needles with silver-white bands underneath. This tree has an overall conical shape. They produce 2 to 4 inch long cones that stand straight up from the foliage. These start out a beautiful purple color and mature into a gray-brown tone. The seeds and buds are used as food by a wide variety of wildlife. However, these trees are considered mildly toxic to humans and pets. According to the University of California, balsam fir trees are mildly toxic to humans. The needles are toxic to pets as well. This type of easy-to-grow fir tree is not often plagued with pests or diseases. However, they are not immune to problems from balsam wooly adelgids, bark beetles, spruce budworms, aphids, scale, root rot, cankers, needle rust, or blight. They are not very tolerant of pollution from urban areas. 

Light

Balsam fir trees do well in full or partial sunlight. Newly started trees prefer sheltered areas for the first year of growth.    

Soil

Balsam fir trees require sandy, loamy, acidic soil to thrive. Moist, but well-draining soil conditions are key to a healthy balsam fir tree. These trees do not handle clay soils well. Try applying several inches of mulch to the top of the soil to help retain moisture. 

Water

Established balsam fir trees only require supplemental water during prolonged droughts. For young trees, water weekly until established. These trees really soak up the water, so be sure to water very heavily. It’s important though that you not water quickly. Water should be released slowly over an extended period of time.

Temperature and Humidity

Balsam fir trees enjoy cool weather and do not handle heat and humidity well. They thrive in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 5. As an evergreen variety, these trees sport their deep green needles year-round. 

Fertilizer

Fertilizing young trees once in the spring can help encourage new, healthy growth. They respond well to well-balanced fertilizer. However, too much fertilizer can cause damage to these trees. They do not need fertilizer more than once a year and mature trees do not require fertilizer at all. 

Propagating Balsam Fir

Propagating balsam fir trees through cuttings is possible, though it can be difficult to achieve. Many cuttings end up dying. However, by being aware of a few things, you can tip the scales in your favor and hopefully end up with a thriving cutting. First off, cuttings are more likely to take root when taken from shorter, younger trees. Take cuttings in the spring or summer, selecting a branch from the bottom half of the tree. Gather the following supplies: a sharp pair of garden snips, a small pot, well-draining, moist potting soil, a plastic bag, a rubber band, and a mister bottle.

How to Grow Balsam Fir From Seed

Propagating balsam fir trees from seed is the most popular and most successful form of propagation. To do this, follow these steps: 

Overwintering

Because these trees are native to naturally cold areas, they are designed to withstand cold winters. Therefore, all that is needed to overwinter these trees is to add an extra layer of mulch to help insulate the roots.

Common Problems With Balsam Fir

Balsam fir trees are rather hardy and do not often struggle with many problems. However, yellowing needles and rot resulting from various conditions can affect their growth.

Yellowing Needles and Stunted Growth

If the needles of a balsam fir begin yellowing and the tree is not growing as it usually does, this can be a sign of root rot. This is caused by too much water in the soil. If these signs present themselves, cut back on watering and allow the soil to dry out. If the soil is not draining properly, try adding in sand to increase drainage.  

Weakened Structure and the Presence of Mushrooms

Another problem that may come up with balsam fir trees is the growth of mushrooms out of their trunks or branches and a weakened structure that may break easily. These are signs of heart rot, which is a form of fungus that attacks the innermost wood of the tree. This may occur from the fungus entering into a wound on the tree or from the tree weakening because of less than ideal conditions. If this occurs, remove the damaged or infected branches, if possible. Be sure not to damage the branch collar.