These small, low-growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance. Generally easy to grow, the same best practices that yield healthy aloe and echeveria plants will also produce beautiful haworthia plants. These plants are often purchased as potted specimens and are best planted in the spring or early summer. Like many succulents, they are fairly slow-growing plants. Outdoors, haworthias generally do best in slightly sheltered locations rather than in full sunlight. This makes them quite easy to grow as houseplants. If you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with haworthia. They can be grown in a variety of containers, but it’s best to choose a container that has adequate drainage holes.
Light
Haworthia species like bright light but not exceptionally strong direct sunlight. In their native environment, they are often found in the slight shade of a rock or other object. They can tolerate direct morning sun, but harsh afternoon rays can burn their foliage. White, red, or yellow leaves usually signifies too much sun. But if a plant isn’t getting enough light, its green color will fade. Indoors, haworthias do best near an east- or west-facing window.
Soil
These plants like a sandy or gravelly soil with excellent drainage. Use a cactus potting mix or another very fast-draining potting soil intended for container plants. To improve soil drainage, mix the soil with perlite, aquarium gravel, or pumice.
Water
Water whenever the top inch of soil has dried out during the spring and summer months, but make sure the soil is never waterlogged. In the fall and winter, reduce watering to just enough to keep the leaves plump. Never allow water to collect in the rosette, as this can lead to rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Haworthia species like warm temperatures between 70 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer and cool temperatures down to 50 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter. They can be damaged when temperatures fall to 40 degrees Fahrenheit and lower. Humidity isn’t an issue for this plant. What it does require is good ventilation, especially at night when it takes in carbon dioxide for photosynthesis.
Fertilizer
Follow label instructions to fertilize haworthia during the spring and summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the fall and winter.
Types of Hawthoria
There are more than 100 species of haworthia, but their classification can be complex. The main difference among the common species is the size of the leaves and the orientation of the white markings on the leaves. In general, the best advice is to buy the most attractive variety that appeals to you based on leaf form and markings, as they all have similar cultural requirements. Some popular species include:
H. margaritifera also called the pearl plant, is a clumping variety with white speckles on its tentacle-like leaves.H. fasciata has thick dark green leaves with horizontal white stripes and is sometimes known as the zebra haworthia.H. bolusii is stemless with fleshy leaves that form a rosette. It is called the spiderweb haworthia due to the fine white hairs growing along the edges of its leaves. This species does best in full sun.H. attenuata features white wart-like pearls on both the top and the bottom of its long, pointed green leaves.
Propagating Hawthoria
A cost-effective way to propagate haworthia plants is via its offsets, the tiny new plants growing from the base of a parent plant. Propagation via offsets prevents the parent plant from becoming overcrowded. A convenient time to propagate haworthia is when it has overgrown its container and needs to be repotted. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snips to cut as close to the parent stem as possible and include as many roots as possible. Then, allow the offsets to dry for about a day before repotting. Plant the offsets in a small pot using the same type of potting soil that the parent plant was growing.
Potting and Repotting Haworthia
Haworthias are small plants (usually remaining between 3 and 5 inches tall), and they are relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. But they also can be planted individually in containers. A small unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Drainage holes in the container are essential for good drainage. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the parent plant sends out offsets. A cluster will typically outgrow its container every three to five years. Repot in the spring to early summer. Either use a wider container with fresh potting mix, or split up the cluster into separate containers. Even when a larger container isn’t necessary, a plant will often benefit from being repotted in the same container with fresh soil every three to five years.
Common Pests
Haworthias are free of most pests with one common exception: mealybugs. These small, oval insects that suck the juice out of the foliage can be controlled by simple physical removal or with an insecticidal spray. Also, if the soil is kept too moist, you might have problems with fungus gnats. Remedying the over-wet condition is often all you need to do to combat this problem.
Common Problems With Haworthia
Haworthias are hardy plants if they are grown in their ideal conditions. But issues with their environment can result in a few common problems.
Drooping Leaves
Drooping or shriveling leaves can be the result of underwatering. But more commonly they are actually a sign of overwatering and subsequent root rot. Soggy soil can kill the roots. When water does not drain readily, the water continually fills soil air pores and the roots cannot “breathe” or exchange gases. The roots will eventually die from a lack of oxygen Make sure you are watering only when the soil has dried out, and never leave your plant in waterlogged soil.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Yellow leaves on haworthia are often a result of too much sun, as are red or white leaves. Move your plant to a slightly shadier spot—but not full shade—and that might solve the problem.
