Red cascade, as this tree is also commonly known, has evergreen leaves that are narrow and gray-green in color. The weeping branches are covered in a shaggy, gray-green bark. The weeping bottlebrush is resistant to most diseases and pests and is deer resistant. However, some common problems include witches’ broom, mites, insect galls, and root rot. This tree’s dense, matting root system makes it well-suited for erosion control.
Light
The weeping bottlebrush requires full sun to thrive. These trees are not shade tolerant and won’t bloom as prolifically when planted in an area that receives only partial sun.
Soil
Well-draining soil is important, as soggy soil can lead to root rot. These trees like loose, sandy soil that allows the root system to mat. Slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is best, as alkaline soils can cause yellow leaves.
Water
Regular watering will keep the weeping bottlebrush healthy and strong. Mature plants can withstand times of drought but fare better with supplemental water. Water intermittently when the soil feels dry several inches below the surface.
Temperature and Humidity
Red cascade trees prefer warm temperatures and do not handle cold or frost well. They grow best in hot, dry climates, but can tolerate humid areas.
Fertilizer
Providing weeping bottlebrush trees with well-balanced fertilizer throughout the growing season will encourage healthy growth and flowering. Apply from spring until fall, at the beginning of each season.
Pruning
Pruning can help keep this tree looking clean and manicured. Prune weeping bottlebrush trees after flowering to remove the spent blooms and help the tree keep an orderly shape.
Propagating Weeping Bottlebrush
Weeping bottlebrush trees are easily propagated from semi-mature wood cuttings taken in summer. You will need sharp garden snips, a small pot, moist potting soil, rooting hormone, a plastic bag, and a rubber band. Then follow the instructions below:
How to Grow Weeping Bottlebrush From Seed
Weeping bottlebrush trees also grow well from seed. Because this takes longer than a cutting, it is best to start seeds in the early spring. Here’s how to do it:
Potting and Repotting Weeping Bottlebrush
Weeping bottlebrush trees respond well to being kept in pots, making them a good choice for large container gardens. Choose a container that is at least 8 inches or so larger than the root ball to allow for several years of growth. Ensure that the container has freely flowing drainage holes. You’ll need to fertilize the plant in spring and summer to provide the necessary nutrients. When the weeping bottlebrush outgrows its container, gently tip the container onto its side to loosen the root system, then slide the plant out of the container. Place the plant into a larger container and fill it with well-draining soil. Bury the root system to the same level it was previously, then water thoroughly.
Overwintering
Because the weeping bottlebrush is grown in warm climates, no additional care is required for overwintering. Simply withhold fertilizer. For those grown outside of their growing zones, weeping bottlebrush trees must be kept in containers and moved to a protected area, such as a garage or greenhouse.
How to Get Weeping Bottlebrush to Bloom
These trees will produce bright red, 3- to 5-inch flowers with showy, spiky stamens. These appear from spring to summer, then sometimes sporadically afterward. Water regularly to encourage flowering. Fertilize at the beginning of spring, summer, and fall. Adding high-phosphorus fertilizer a few weeks before flowering begins will encourage a plentiful, vibrant bloom. Deadhead the blooms as they fade to encourage continual flowering.
Common Problems With Weeping Bottlebrush
Weeping bottlebrush trees are rather hardy and do not often have many problems. However, even hardy plants can have the occasional issue. For these trees, the most common issue encountered is witches’ broom.
Witches’ Broom
Witches’ broom is a dense, rounded form of twigs growing from the branches of a tree. In response to stress, the tree sends out many shoots in the same area of a branch, causing a knotty, nest-like structure. A common cause of stress is insects, such as mites. To address witches’ broom, try to identify the cause of stress and remove it. Then, if possible, simply remove the witches’ broom.
